Mt. Rainier Trip Report:
Unfortunately no cell phone service at all on or around the mountain, so we could not send any messages to the blog. Back home after a very memorable experience on Rainier. We had perfect weather, beautiful sunny days and clear nights with a big moon. After getting a bit of a late start friday, we set up a low camp at ~9k ft, on a rocky shelf with magnificent views of Mt. Adams, Mt. Hood, and Mt. St. Helens. Everybody was feeling pretty good, save for some sore backs (me), hips and one very sore ankle that Eric K. was fighting through. He had sprained it recently and was just going to see how it felt day-to-day. I'm not sure if Eric's buddy Jeff even broke a sweat or was breathing heavy on the climb up.

Sat morning we broke camp and hoofed it another 1000 ft. up to Camp Muir at 10,080 ft, and took a rest break. This is the usual base camp area for many teams, as well as the base for the guided services like RMI. Eric K had done yeoman's work getting to this point on a weakened ankle, but it wasn't prudent to go any further on it. From here the slopes got steeper with loose rock and scree, and coming down it would have been impossible without strong ankles. So he made the wise decision to head back down, and Jeff, who sumitted Rainier once before, decided to accompany him to the bottom so they could spend some time in Seattle.

From here, Eric Tirnauer, Joe and I roped up, strapped on the crampons and went another 1k ft., across the Cowlitz Galcier, over the steep rock and scree of Cathedral Gap and up to Ingraham Flats to set up a high camp at ~11k ft. After the long stop at Muir, we were lucky to nab the last tent site without having to dig one out. At this point, it was all about preparing for the summit bid - melting snow for drinking water, eating, sorting our gear, packing up our packs for the summit, and finally laying down about 6:00 pm to get some rest.

The plan was to wake up at midnight and be climbing by 12:30 or so to stay ahead of all the RMI groups starting from Camp Muir. Ah, the best laid plans....Faintly I hear footsteps on the trail of climbers moving past our camp and jolt upright. Shit, it's 1:30! We couldn't hear the alarm, my wrist buried in my sleeping bag, and when I realized what time it was, I rousted Big E. At this point, there was a brief discussion amongst the 3 of us on whether we wanted to go for it or not, with two "for" climbing and one "against". As is normal, the very short night, and lack of sleep was creating some doubt and apprehension. The "against" was prodded to at least give it a try and see how the energy level felt after eating and drinking and getting moving. So it was up and out of the tent, dressed, harnesses on, boots, gaitors, crampons, helmet, headlamp, ice axe, and ready to go. The packs were barely noticeable with nothing but our down jackets, balaclava, over-mittens, and extra water...maybe 15-20 lbs compared to the 50+ we carried up to that point.

The climb to the summit was extremely challenging, both physically and mentally. Fortunately, we had near-perfect climbing conditions - not too cold, not too warm...clear skies, bright moon, no wind. The first objective was to gain the 'Disappointment Cleaver", aptly named for the many who turn back from there. Its' steep, mixed rock/scree and snow, make it very intimidating. We took our first, well-earned 5-minute break at the top of the Cleaver at ~12k ft., on a flat, rocky ledge, and were treated to a beautiful sunrise from this awesome vantage point. We were all feeling pretty good at this point, and decided to make the push for the summit. This was a long, 3 hour slog up numerous switchbacks with some pretty steep sections at times. By this time, the sun was up and it was clear, so we had great views , and could see the terrain in front of us easily. The "trail" up the glacier was usually about 1 -2 feet wide, with occasional obstacles, but for the most part it was straight-forward climbing, one foot in front of the other, rest-step, plant the ice axe, breath, repeat.

We made the crater rim right around 8:00 am, through a little notch in the snow bank they call the "gate". We sat down in the crater for a couple mins, took off our packs, and walked 10-15 mins across the crater and up to "Columbia Crest", the true summit at 14, 410 feet, the second highest in the lower 48. I felt all sorts of emotions - ecstatic, grateful, lucky, tired, relieved, and proud probably sum it up best. I thought it was very cool to have been able to do that with one of my best friends (who had never climbed before), and a really funny, great guy who had alot of experience and agreed to lead us on the mountain. Eric Tirnauer was not only a great climbing leader and motivator, he was also a lot of fun.

Coming down we had to take it a little slow, as the snow was getting soft and slushy as the sun heated it up. We had 9 miles and 9000 vertical feet to descend. We made it to Ingraham Flats around 11:45 am, leaving the summit around 9. We packed up our camp, shouldered our heavy packs, roped up again, crossed over Cathedral Gap and down the scree slope, stopping next at Camp Muir for a brief rest before the long hike down the Muir Snowfield to the Paradise Visitor Center. On the snowfield we were able to glissade a number of times, getting up some good speed as we slid down the steeper sections on our butts, controlling our speed with our poles or ice axe. It never got old. Finally hit the parking lot ~6:00 pm, but Big E had been there since 5ish waiting for us, since he was able to descend alot faster than we. Funny how gravity works that way.

This was a truly special alpine adventure, and would highly recommend this climb to anyone who hasn't done it. Mt. Rainier is an extraordinary national park and absolutely beautiful glaciated volcano that provides the feel of a true mountaineering experience.


P.S. Good luck to the Climb For Hope 2.3 team on Mt. Adams, which we could clearly see the entire time. Also looks like a fantastic mountain. Climb on!

For those of you out there following this blog, a small group of CFH members will be attempting to climb Mt. Rainier July 18-20. The team is: Eric Tirnauer, Eric Kronthal and Jon Guth from the CFH 1.0 Cotopaxi expedition in January 2007, along with Joe Millman and Jeff Fagnan. We will attempt Rainier via the Muir Snowfield - Dissappointment Cleaver route, and try to send some posts via email/cell phone to this blog from the mountain, depending on cell coverage.
Hopefully we will get a good weather window!
Cheers.

Dispatch 3 from Andy Buerger on Mt. Kilimanjaro, CFH Trip 2:
(Via Jen Buerger)
Andy called at 5:14 am this morning happily reporting that everyone made it to the summit AND is safely down at camp for the night. He said it was an extremely long and exhausting day which ended with great emotional rewards for everyone.

SO amazing!
P & L,
JB

Dispatch 2 from Andy Buerger on Mt. Kilimanjaro, CFH Trip 2:

Jen Buerger spoke w/ Andy again this morning - about 8:30am our time. They are having a light pasta dinner then heading off to bed early. Everyone continues to be strong and is expected to make the summit push starting around 11:30pm (their time) tonight. Spirits are high, but a few stomachs are being affected by altitude or bug. She'll be in touch again as soon as she hears anything more.

Dispatch 1 from Andy Buerger on Mt. Kilimanjaro, CFH Trip 2:

Andy says it is extremely beautiful. The past days the weather has been warm and great to trek in. Today (day 4 of the actual climb) they are having a much needed rest day and getting prepared for the last 2 days of the climb. They camped at 12,800 ft. (I think). Everyone is strong and doing great. A few blisters -- to report. He says the group is tremendous and jelling.

That's all for now.

CFH Group 1 on Mt. Kilimanjaro
Day 5
June 9, 2008

Habari! We have arrived safely at Karanga camp, 13,200 feet. The climb and the scenery have been spectacular. Day one had us ascend from 6000 ft. to 1000 feet. We spent most of the day in damp rainforest (think Gorillas in the Mist), arriving seven and a half hours later at Machame camp. Day two we headed above the tree line and into the billowy white clouds that blanketed the horizon for a hundred and eighty degrees around us, arriving at Shira camp at 12,800 feet. Day Three had us set out on the steady, stony route to 15000 feet to the stony lava tower, and then down the Umbwe route to the Barranco camp at 13000 feet, where we arrived after the nine hour day, and then rested through day four.

Every day we set out with the clouds sitting below us, and as the day warms, the pressure differential causes the clouds to rise and catch us in a cold mist as they pass us, waiting for us to climb above them again.

Today we scrambled and switched back over the craggy Barranco wall crossing streams, hand over hand climbing (sometimes at 80 degree angles), and then down and up again, traversing west on the southern side of the mountain to the Karanga camp site. Our camp site is now set in the sunny afternoon below the magnificent snow-covered mountain standing sentinel over the coming evening. Everyone is doing well and the pace has been steady. Tomorrow we’ll set out for the four hour hike to Barafu high camp (15000+ ft), rest all day, and then set out at midnight to trek the last 4000 snow –covered feet to the summit.

Love to all, and Asante Asana!

Joel

5:30 am Wed 6/4

Habari! All's well in AFRICA! I snuck into the hotel office to send you a quick email. Yesterday we caught a glimpse of Kilimanjero across the plains as the clouds parted - it is HUMUNGOUS (sp?) No mountain in the world stands more out of the ground and it is an awesome sight to behold. We set off at 7 am to begin the journey. Chris and Austin have us prepped and Carol, Annie, Liz, Mike, Owen, Beth are all chomp'n at the bit - I think we have more cameras than porters ... Mike has offered to tatoo or pierce any of us anywhere...making sure he hikes ahead of me...An honor to be with 3 cancer survivors on this journey - their experiences have already movd us and will no doubt inspire the path ahad.. Internet and phone might be spotty but we'll try to get back in touch soon. Kwaheri for now and asante sana for all of your support!

Joel

Hello everyone,

Dan Jenkins here. Ted has allowed me to access a post here under his name, so I would like to jot a few notes about my impressions of summit day of the Climb for Hope 2008 Cotopaxi expedition. Here goes.

It is late at night -- but to be fair -- it presents itself as a VERY early morning.

When we laid down for a final rest (hours before), the snows descended upon the massif that is Cotopaxi, blanketing the slopes with conviction and abundance. Now, the wee hours found the deep cobalt sky dotted with diamonds -- lifting our spirits closer to the summit with the prospect of favorable conditions.

Team members double (triple????) check all gear, strategically stashing necessities in available pockets. These are final details that help calm nerves and insure our dedication to precison.

Headlamps light the path out of the hut (refugio - refuge) casting adequate light to survey a reasonable radius of landscape of 10-30 feet. Any more might prove distracting to the task of putting 1 step forward - slowly, deliberately, then another step and establishing a balanced position. Finally planting our axes firmly, confidently into the slope. This simple process is repeated, rhythmically, for the duration of the ascent. The simplicity of the process can be extremely comforting amidst a potential abundance of thoughts, ideas and ruminations that one may experience during the climb. Focus. Simply - step, step, plant ax. Step, step, plant ax. Repeat.

As we move uphill, individuals experience personal challenges not unlike those facing cancer, doing so with grace, balance and integrity. While the struggle is individual, the team support is indeed integral to succeed and reach our common goal.

We all show up where we are supposed to be, when we are supposed to arrive. As we allow the spirit of those who beleive in our mission - who speak to our hearts, our souls, our bodies - as we invite them to reach out in front and gently push open the door.... it simply becomes. They are our access to go beyond ourselves. Our steps are now not our own, but dedicated to family, friends and loved ones.

On through the night we move, taking only the shortest of necessary breaks. Water, food, warmer clothes, and a few snapshots. Time to climb again. Get into rhythm again and feel the flow.

Lightening strikes can be viewed to the east as the Amazon Basin electrifies the disatant clouds in a spectacular show.

Dawn creeps slowly on the margin of the horizon and teases us with a false promise of warmth. At 6 am we will not be struck by the golden rays for over 3 1/2 hours as we are eclipsed on the western slopes. It´s beckoning radiation, however, indeed illuminates the landscape spectacularly.

On our steepest and most challenging portion of the climb we are reminded of the necessity to be vigilant in our systems until we are direcly upon the summit itself. We affix a secondary (and permanent) rope forn our and everyone who climbs the mountain´s safety. This will insure an extra level of precaution on a dangerous portion of our climb and we can now - tenuously - move as a team up to the crater rim.

Relief, joy, celebration, recognition, gratitude, inspiration, and pride envelop the team as we fittingly embrace as we climbed - together.

The dedications, memorialsw, flags, & thank-you´s are captured on still and video to phyusically manifest what had been imagined and thought by everyone throughout the ascent.

As we step off the summit we witnewss the active volcano Tungurahua blow a HUGE plume - nealy 50 miles away.

Our descent is calculated, focused and rapid. The softening snows could prove challenging and fatal if we delay inour task. The members work together admirably and in 2 short hours, we disembark the glacier and return to the hut.

Smiles (grins, actually) abound and the sense of accomplishment and satisfaction is palpable.

We will continue to reflect for hours about all the amazing moments that happened throughout the entire expedition, especially on summit day.

This is a group fo people who trained fiercely, were tenacious and productive fundraisers and dedicated and conscientious mountaineers who I am proud to have shared a rope with on our ascent of Cotopaxi.

Strive for excellence.

Spread your humility and humanity abundantly as you have for the past 10 days, and indeed your entire life.

Be well.

Our Guide, Dan´s Arm, Laura, Ted, Nick and Todd nearing the summit this am.

Hi all, ted here. just a quick note to all so you get the great news that we all summited at about 9am this morning. we had a late start do to alot of traffic on the moutain. it took us about 8.5 hours between the traffic and all the fresh snow we came in contact with to reach the summit.
A very starry night and warm, perfect for climbing. We are all back in Quito now grabbing showers, relaxing, etc., before we go out tonight to celebrate. It was by far the hardest thing I have every done in my life and I think i can speak for the whole team by saying just how much each and everyone of you help us make it today. I know that there was not ever a time on the climb that we were not thinkiing of you all and how much you mean to us.
Our guides Chris and Dan, from Earth Treks were great. they took the best care of us and taught us alot. Andy, we want to thank you for being here with us in spirit, it was an honor to do this fof Climb For Hope.
Look for pictures tonight.

Best,
Team Pittsburgh

PS- NO we areNOT near the erupting volcano for all those concerned. Although we did see it erupting in the far distance while we were on the summmit of Cotopaxi.

Hey all-
It's Wednesday afternoon, the day before we head for our biggest climb to the top of Cotopaxi and our last chance to check in with an update before we go.
Yesterday we started early with a drive up the flanks of Rucu Pichinchu, and a dawn trek that would lead us to the summit, which rises 4680m above the surrounding peaks. I stink at conversion stuff, but it's more than 15,000 feet, which makes it the highest peak yet for Nick, Ted and Todd. We set out from the trailhead at 6:10 and were off the mountain by 1:30. Not bad for a bunch of flatlanders (except for Dan who's from Colorado and Chris who seems to have spent most of his adult life in thin air). The hike took us to the crater rim where clouds swept over amazing lava formations and wind whipped across the barren landscape. We took plenty of photos and quite a bit of video of the excursion and can't wait to show it off to everyone. We're having all kinds of problems loading our pictures for you to see and we apologize. We have some great ones of the places and people and climbs. It was a terrific summit for all of us and the toughest test of our training to date. It felt great to climb so high and know that we were climbing for so many people and such a great cause. We each took a moment along the way to video a message to those we're here climbing for and it was a very emotional moment when we all took a moment to think of them and the struggles they face on a daily basis.
Today we spent the morning packing for our big climb. We were fitted for boots and crampons, went through a packing seminar and then headed for our rooms to sort the gear we brought with us and get organized. Dan and Chris helped to make sure we took the right stuff and only the things we needed for the hike to the hut in the morning (we will stay at 15,400 for the next two nights) and then the big summit day which will take us up the glacier to the summit of Ecuador's second highest peak and one of the world's highest active volcanos at 19,400ft. It's an incredible undertaking and one that is starting to come into focus for each of us as the days count down to D day. We can't wait to get started and stand on top. But the most important moment of all will be when we come back down and arrive back in Quito safe and sound.
Again, sorry for the lack of photos. We're frustrated but have tried our best.
To all of you who have followed our trek, thank you for your support and encouragement. And for all of you who we're doing this for, know that you are in our thoughts and prayers every step of the way. That's what this climb is all about.

As we used to say in the Logtown Alpine Club:
Upgois Sahibe

Ted, Nick, Laura, Todd, Dan and Chris
Love to all